Betts:
"There were so many trees.
There was such abundance of fresh air.
It was incidental that much of the fresh air blew in from the domain of madness, crime, wounds and death, each of which required a large acreage of living space, if living is the word.
So where were these domains that PY Betts was referring to? This map, from the 1890s (so roughly 20 years before she was writing about,) shows us the various locations, all within striking distance of the Betts' house which is marked with a red dot.
Madness — the Asylum, just off Burntwood Lane Crime — the Prison Wounds — The Royal Victoria Patriotic Asylum Death — Wandsworth Cemetery 13.
And here they are in more detail, from the 1916 Ordnance Survey map:
The ' County Lunatic Asylum', today known as Springfield University Hospital 14.
Wandsworth Prison — notice that the detailed layout of the buildings is not shown on the map and that it's still being referred to as Her Majesty's Prison — a sign that maps cannot always be trusted!
15.
The Royal Victoria Patriotic School — which you will see was set up as a school for ' Orphan Daughters of Soldiers, Seamen and Marines of the Realm '.
16.
Wandsworth Cemetery — with two chapels — one Church of England and one Non-Conformist and much smaller than it is today.
25 07.
We will look at each of these institutions in more detail in due course .
But first, we turn to Betts'home life and what we might call the Domes tic Domain 17 Betts:
"Our suburb was a favoured one on accountof its wide roads and many open spaces.
Notonly was there the Common, there was a nursery garden full of flowers, threaded with footpaths there were enchanting glimpses through wrought-iron gates of the secret gardens of the big houses in the road between two commons where my grandparents lived "
18.
"the road between two commons where my grandparents lived " was Nightingale Lane .
We will hear more about her grandparents and their household later.
19 Betts:
"Our house in London was at about the middle of a long, very wide road lined with (then) young plane trees.
"The top of the road near the Common was the ' better'end, going down pastour house and other houses like it "
and then more steeply downhill to a stretch not builton, a vague area of slightly messed-up open spaces, a Board school with its shrieking playground, and the cemetery.
"22.
Betts is talking about Magdalen Road.
Here is a picture of the road from 1898, before the planting of the plane trees .
More correctly we should pronounce it 'Maudlin Road' as it had been laid out in the 1870s by Magdalen College, Oxford, linking Garratt Lane to Trinity Road.
24.
The college had owned a large swathe of land since the 1840s (coloured pink on this map) and developed ambitious plans for the whole area to be used to create a fashionable Garden Suburb, the Magdalen Park estate.
However, after the First World War The land below Ellerton Road (marked here in green) was purchased by the local council to create social housing:
which became the Fieldview and Openview estates.
25.
The Betts family lived at 51 Magdalen Road, marked here with a red dot.
26.
Here's what it looks like today.
Thanks to a renumbering of the houses in the 1920s, it is now number 77 27.
The Betts were probably the first occupiers of the house as it was part of a newly-built terrace erected in c.
1906 by local builders Holloway Brothers.
This is the drainage plan submitted by Holloways at the time showing the row of houses from number 27 to 55.
28.
The Betts family consisted of PY herself (Phyllis Yvonne), born in 1909, her brother, Eric who was five years older, their parents, Arthur and Beatrice, and usually one servant.
The 1911 census shows us that Arthur was a clerk in a Building Society and tha t [??], at that time, Beatrice (or Bea) had a 22-year-old Mother's Help.
Arthur and Bea had been married in St Luke's church on Thurleigh Road in 1903 and Phyllis Yvonne was christened there on 4 th July 190 9 .
Both ceremonies were conducted by the very influential Vicar of Battersea, John Erskine Clarke.
30.
Betts paints vivid, and affectionate, portraits of her family, friends and assorted characters with whom she came into contact.
Betts:
"I knew that some mothers lied to their children about wounds and death, but I should have been ashamed to have had a soft centre mother like that.
My mother was rather unlike other children's mothers in her ways, but though she could be embarrassing I was qu ite proud of her, and of my father too, because they were bold and good-looking.
I should not have liked the funny-looking parents who fussed about everything that some children had.
"Clara had been my newly-married parents' first little maidservant, a fourteen-year-old up from Somerset.
"Later, when Clara leaves to get married — " At home, minus Clara, we were ' without '.
"Without" meant being without domestic help and was accepted verbal currency among ladies who customarily employed .
My mother revelled in this deprivation.
She had long striven to sink socially, and now here was her chance.
We ate in the kitchen.
"In his dress, which was immaculate, Dr Biggs was a relic of a former generation.
I knew nobody else who dressed like Dr Biggs.
He was snuff-coloured all over.
He wore a frock coat, a long wrapped-over affair, with trousers of the same colour and spats.
His waistcoat had pearl buttons.
He always wore wing collars Outside the house, during his visits, waited Dr Biggs's brougham with his coachman.
Other doctors already did their rounds by motor car but Dr Biggs was a carriage and horse man to the last.
That was the nicest thing about him.
One supposes that his horse, when it was out of sorts, was doctored with the same brown physic and red physic that were all his patients ever got, but in somewhat larger doses.
"31 Betts:
"Our house backed onto a field of eleven acres bounded by gardens of houses built four sides of a square.
It was a real meadow with hedges and ditches and many big trees.
32 Betts:
"In the summer hay was cut there and after the hay sheep were turned in to graze.
Usually there was nobody there, at most two or three children from the neighbouring houses, playing " 25 07.
"I had become friendly with a girl who lived in the next road to mine.
Her name was Marion Morris.
Her experience was limited in that she seemed never to have done anything naughty, never fought with anybody or even climbed trees .
33 Betts:
"Her father was manager of Price's factory in Battersea and he often brought home reject candles.
She would give me some small coloured barley sugar Christmas ones if I liked.
Our friendship strengthened.
34.
As we've heard, Betts's grandparents lived on Nightingale Lane.
Their house was Sherbrooke Lodge, located opposite Endlesham Road.
Here it is in 1870, quite isolated and with a fairly substantial garden at the back.
35.
Here you can see how the area had developed by the 1910s.
36.
This is the site today, with Sherbrooke Lodge replaced by a modern block of flats.
But notice the fine tree .
I'm sure this once stood in the front driveway of the Lodge.
Betts:
"Though we were not forced to go to church, our Sundays were not without their burden of duty.
We were expected to accompany our mother on the weekly walk across the Common to visit our grandparents for tea " 37 Betts:
"The house was a substantial Victorian one with two entrance gates and a sweep — around drive.
It was covered with creeper that was not, however, permitted to straggle.
A flight of steps led up to a storm porch, closed in winter, and the front door.
The brass door furniture was brightly polished.
In summer a striped awning shielded the paintwork from the blistering action of the sun.
There was a brass bell-pull with echoes in the depths of the house, followed by the approaching footsteps of the parlourmaid.
We would say "Good afternoon, Alice" in answer to her greeting.
"38 25 07.
Betts' grandfather was Edward Wood JP, who was the manager of the Temperance Building Society, the firm that Betts'father, Arthur, worked for.
In 1911, the household consisted of Edward, his wife, Elizabeth, two daughters, Ada and Ethel, a son, John (known as Jack) and two servants.
Betts:
"Grandpa was immaculate.
Everything about him was clean and fastidious.
His well-kept hands were shapely.
His speech was impressive — when Grandpa spoke, people listened.
His articulation was crystalline.
All in all Grandpa was a well-polished specimen.
It was hard to believe that he had started life in a miner's crowded cottage in Nottinghamshire and had had no schooling after the age of eleven.
"Aunts Ada and Ethel also lived at Sherbourne Lodge Betts:
"There was a period, not so long past, when almost everybody had an aunt called Ethel.
I even knew one or two who notonly had an aunt called Ethel but were themselves called Ethel and were themselves aunts — Aunt Ethels that is.
There was something about the name that notonly broughton aunthood but was somehow marriage-repellent.
Ethels did not breed much.
Perhaps that is why they have become comparatively rare.
Although Aunt Ethel may have looked like Lord Longford in drag, she had been sought in marriage, th ough only by a curate.
This offer had been refused.
"39.
We now return to where the Betts lived on the west side of the Common, Magdalen Road Betts:
"On the other side of the road from us there were only two houses, built close together. They were bigger and older than the modern houses on our side.
One was the undertakers; the one next door was a small private school.
So, on the left here we have the undertakers, and on the right, the private school 40.
These two houses were built by local builder James Carmichael, the first one in 1898 and the second one a few years later.
They continued the Oxford University connection by being named "Balliol" and "Oriel".
41 25 07.
Betts:
"The undertaker's family lived over the shop, which had a big front showroom with a display of coffins and artificial flowers under glass domes.
Behind this there was the joiner's shop where the coffins were made.
"There must have been a mortuary too, because in later years, when refrigeration became common, my mother had the bright idea of getting round the undertaker to store her furs in the cold room the re during the summer — it was so much handier than the Army and Navy Stores.
Cheaper too, no doubt — just one or two of my mother's dazzling smiles would do the trick with the undertaker, whose customers were so much less lively than my mother.
"42.
The undertaker was William Buchanan, who did indeed suppl y coffins and funeral arrangements but, as you can see from the census, regarded himself primarily as a ' monumental sculptor'.
43.
Many of the gravestones in Wandsworth Cemetery were produced by Buchanan's and the family are themselves interred there.
44.
The company continued in the premises until fairly recently and present-day inhabitants of the area can still remember when a sign on the side of the building ove rlooking the cemetery carried the Buchanan name.
45.
Recently, the area at the rear where the workshops used to be was developed into new housing but its heritage is reflected in the name 'Stonemason's Yard'.
46.
The Domain of Education
The house next door was a small private school, which Betts herself attended for a while.
47 Betts:
25 07.
"Mrs Stroud's school was a sortof happy bedlam, not at all upmarket.
It catered for children of all ages and both sexes, boys of kindergarten age and girls from tiny children to what appeared to be ripe woman-hood.
What made it down-market was that its pupils were drawn almost entirely from down the road.
Shopkeepers'daughters went there, well-nourished girls whose fathers wielded cleavers behind butchers' blocks, or kept pubs.
These were far from needy; though considered, of course, common.
"The school swirled with the diversity of the human genetic pool.
This was a private house .
The pupils were packed into the first floor and the attic that ran from front to back of the house.
The place was crammed .
There was no room to move.
The only game possible in the eleven o'clock break, which perforce had to be spent in the classroom, was Sardines.
Nobody gave a thought to the fi re risk.
The undertaker's was conveniently placed next door.
"48 Sue:
One of the teachers was a Miss Snead.
Betts:
"Miss Snead was the sortof person you have to look at when they pass you outof doors.
She would be in her later forties, tall, thin an d rectangular.
Her face was a yellowish brown, with dark eyes and black hair above a high forehead.
Seen from the front she appeared to be a sketchily articulated series of oblongs, some longer and thinner than others, the head almost square.
But these rec tangles were not in parallel with one another, nor did they move to the same rhythm.
"There was a touch of wryneck about Miss Snead — the head a little tilted to one side, the face on yet another plane, the lower part pushed forward, the lips stretched in a contained smile over uncountable false teeth.
She was like a cluster of metal mirrors set at different angles, jangling together as they flashed uneasy light into the eyes of strangers.
She could have scared crows.
"49.
The "real" Stroud family were actually called Wood.
Emmeline Wood was the Schoolmistress and her husband Walter was an optician.
Their daughter Molly was two-years-old at the time of the 1911 census.
Betts writes about her and we learn that, like many o f Betts'young acquaintances, she died young, succumbing to Black Measles in 1915 .
50.
There were two further schools "down the hill".
The school buildings half-way down that we can see on this 1916 map were replaced by the present-day school premises in 1926.
It was called Magdalen Road school and was initially for infants only.
It later became Beatrix Potter.
25
The school at the bottom of the hill was one of the many "Board Schools" that sprang up following the 1870 Education Act.
Initially known as Tranmere Road School, it is now Earlsfield Primary.
Betts:
"The Board school was for pupils drawn from the nether regions at the bottom of the hill who were too poor to pay for fees, though some of the more ambitious parents, according to my mother, scraped together fourpence a week to pay for violin lessons.
She was full of a sortof exasperated pity for these needy little aspirants scraping away on their tinny fiddles till their fourteenth birthday pitched them empty-handed into the neare st factory, which was a smelly one.
I never knew what was made there.
Something to do with glue, I think, or gas.
"51.
The smelly factory that children would move onto from school might well have been the horse-slaughtering business run by Harrison and Barber .
They had seven depots throughout London which killed 26,000 horses a year.
The one on the banks of the Wandle, justoff Garratt Lane, was the largestof them and included a complete refrigerating plant in which two hundred and fifty ho rses could be stored.
No piece of the poor animal went to waste.
Associated industries on site included a chemical manure factory and facilities for bone crushing, glue production and fat melting.
No wonder it was smelly! Meat was set aside not just for cats and dogs, but also for human consumption.
52.
The Domain of Madness.
Betts:
"Madness was accommodated in the large lunatic asylum, with its own farm, not far from the Common.
In the days of my youth there were not euphemisms for mental disturbance.
If you were mentally ill you were mad and if you were mad you went to a lunatic asylum and no messing .
"In my own day no especial horror stories came outof the asylum.
There were high walls round the grounds ".
53.
The Surrey County Lunatic Asylum firs topened in 1841 on a 97-acre site bought from Henry Perkins, a wealthy brewer, who had himself obtained the freehold from the 2nd Earl Spencer.
The asylum was intended to serve the pauper population of rural Surrey and could initially accommodate 350 patients.
It was supported by a large farm including a massive kitchen garden near the central kitchens.
In 1895, a separate annexe for 'Idiot' Children was created in order to remove children from the main wards within the hospital. John Langdon Down, famous for his description of the condition now known as Down syndrome, advised on the layoutof the Annexe.
54 Betts:
"Sometimes a happy band of more or less presentable inmates would issue forth in the care of their keepers, busily chattering Their enjoyment was intense. They were mostly, if not all, female, with bright excited eyes and frizzy grey hair, darting jubilantly in and outof the parade of shops facing the Common, clutching small purchases.
"They always buy sardines", my mother said, and it was true:
fourpenny tins of sardines gleamed in their hands as they emerged, discarding paper bags, the afternoon light blazing back from their shining eyes.
The parade of shops is, of course, Bellevue Road and the shop from which they bought the sardines might well have been the grocers at no. 5, run at the time, by Mr Alfred Davis.
55
During the First World War, the site became the Springfield War Hospital and a Neurological Unit was established in the Annexe for patients with shell shock or "loss of mental balance".
Along with King's College Hospital on Denmark Hill, it became one of the principal reception centres for those sent home from the front in France.
56
The Domain of Crime
Betts:
"The domain of crime was the prison which, with its ancillary buildings, was as big as a village, whole streets of warders' houses and big houses with gardens for the Governor, chaplain, doctor. There was a cordon sanitaire of open ground around it, leased off to bowls and tennis clubs.
"Opposite our house was a rough field with a footpath leading away into the prison hinterland
"57 Betts:
"
whence sallied forth at times a hooligan family of red-haired boys, warders' children to terrorise clean little prep schoolboys in their grey flannels. Neighbours tut-tutted about these boys, who seemed ripe for imprisonment the mselves
"58.
Betts:
"The façade of the prison was sombrely impressive, a fortress. It had a huge main gate like the gate of a medieval castle
"59 Betts:
"On winter mornings before it was light on the day of an execution there would be a clippety-shuffle noise on the pavements outside our house. It was the sound of the leather-shod or hobnailed booted people from the bottom of the hill coming up to watch outside the prison in time for the execution at eighto' clock .
"60 Betts:
"When notice of the hanging was posted a communal collective exhalation would go up from the crowd I thoughtof this enormous sigh as the last breath of the hanged murderer, all the breath that had ever been in his lungs going out into the world without hi m.
"61
Wandsworth prison opened in 1851 as the Surrey House of Correction.
It was initially designed to hold 1,000 prisoners, with four wings accommodating men and a separate building which housed women up until the late 1800s.
62
This view shows the approach from Trinity Road along the now lime tree-lined Heathfield Avenue.
The prison was run by the County of Surrey until it was nationalised in 1878, at which point it became the "hanging prison" for south London.
63
A total of 135 executions took place at Wandsworth prison until capital punishment was finally abolished in 1969.
This is a picture of Kate Webster's execution, the only woman ever to be hanged at Wandsworth, in 1879.
64.
The prison retained a working gallows, tested every six months, until it was finally dismantled in 1993.
65
During the First World War, the wing that used to make up the women's prison held conscientious objectors (shown here) but also abscond ing squaddies from the British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand armies; upwards of 200 Irish Republicans following the Easter Rising in 1916 and spies.
66
The only spy actually to be hanged at Wandsworth during the First World War was this man, Robert Rosenthal.
Eleven other men convicted of spying were initially held at Wandsworth until they were transferred to the Tower of London and shot by firing squad.
67 Stephen :
The Domain of Wounds
Betts:
"The walking wounded from the military hospital wore bright blue jackets and trousers of a hairy flannel that was not pressed or tailored like a uniform. It had a cosy look about it, more like a bed jacket. Their shirts were white and their ties were bright red. They were hatless.
They humped abouton crutches or on two sticks. They wore an arm in a sling or were minus a leg or bandaged round the head. Some showed no visible signs of injury. On fine days they lurched and hirpled about the Common. Most of the benches would have tw o or three wounded soldiers in their hospital blue, resting, when the sun was shining.
"68 Betts:
"When they looked up as I scudded past them on my scooter, they did not look sad. They smoked cigarettes and seemed contented enough. But these were the ones who were not going to die.
"69
The' military hospital' was the 3rd London General Hospital, housed in the Royal Victoria Patriotic School.
The school had been built after the Crimean War to educate orphaned daughters of servicemen.
It needed considerable alteration in order to be suitable for its new function but by the time the first patients arrived in September 1914 it was up and running as a hospital of 200 beds.
There was soon a need for more accommodation and hutted wards wer e built in the grounds. This area became known as' bungalow town' and by 1917 housed 1, 600 patients. You can see it spreading over what we now know as the cricket field, next to the Skylark café.
Patients usually arrived by train at a special temporary station, here at the bottom of th e picture.
Over the course of the war more than 62, 000 patients were treated at the hospital.
70
The Domain of Death
Betts:
"Down this road on winter afternoons came the military funerals These were the funerals of the soldiers who had died of wounds in the military hospital up the road They went at a measured pace, the hooves of the horses clopping soberly by. Behind the pairs of horses came the gun carriage with its coffin draped with the Union Jack. There were mounted soldiers, khaki-clad, useful-looking riders without ceremonial trappings
"The procession would go by, down the hill into the wintry afternoon with its faint foggy smell that gripped your throat if you were out in it. It was the s mell of coal fires and winter. The sky, when the cortege had gone outof sight, would be smoky grey with red streaks over the low-lying ground beyond the cemetery.
"71 Betts:
"Those afternoons were very quiet. I would wait.
"Sound Cue:
The Last Post " Then faintly the bugle would sound, final and sad, the lamenting never-coming-back notes of the Last Post.
"It seemed to me a dark, smoky, red slash of sound against the quiet grey of the London winter evening coming down.
"72
Wandsworth Cemetery, which lay just a couple of hundred yards from Betts' home, had been opened in 1878.
There are 475 servicemen of the First World War buried in the cemetery from all over the Empire. There are South Africans, Australians, New Zealanders, on e member of the Indian Army, and a number of Canadians.
A particularly moving group of graves is that containing soldiers and one nurse from Newfoundland.
All so very far from home.
73 Betts:
"At the beginning of the war, when I was small, there had been several young subalterns who had come to the house to say goodbye to my mother before they went away to fight One had a sword. You could see he was happy. You could see he loved having a sword to wear. Just for a moment you could see he was not quite a man yet, only a big boy like the scouts who sometimes made dens of branches in the field.
"At the end of the war, suddenly, I remembered him, half a lifetime away. I asked my mother:' That soldier who came to say goodbye at the beginning of the war, what happened to him? He had a sword.
That must have been Colin Cowper. What a good-looking boy he was! He was killed in the autumn of 1914. He was only twenty.
' 74 Betts:
"I saw the sword drawn in his hand, saw him hit and saw him fall, saw the bright sword fall from his hand, point down into the mud, and be lost like a spoon in a jar of jam. There it had fallen and there it lay still, rusted, the bright sword.
"75 Betts:
"This was a time of sadness and weariness among the grown-ups.
After four years of a heartbreaking war there was scarcely a family not touched by loss. Three younger cousins of my father's, brothers, had all been killed.
"In neighbours' houses there were so many photographs of dead young soldiers looking out from s ilver frames. I used to look and look at the eyes of these soldiers, wondering what they had seen
"76 Betts:
"As for those at home, life had gone grey for them, Everybody was tired and few were well-nourished.
When the great influenza epidemic struck, its victims offered little resistance. Those who died were often in the prime of life. Those who survived suffered from terrible depression.
"I lay in bed one early morning and considered my situation. All around were gloomy grown-ups, always grumbling about something. They seemed abstracted and anxious if not actively disagreeable.
.
I found I was humming under my breath. The humming came up louder.
"Sound Cue:
Sleepers Awake 77.
Betts:
"It was Sleepers Awake, splendid and heartening. I hummed louder — I had no idea of the words — only the invigorating notes sang out, full of hope and courage. From his bedroom my father shouted at me for God's sake shut up. I shut up, butonly slightly.
I still sang under my breath and felt suddenly wonderfully cheerful. Things were not so bad, really .
Life was not so bad if one did not take it too seriously. One could hand itout as well as take it.
Sleepers Awake! "
78
This resilient and spirited attitude towards life and her determination not to "take it too seriously " stood Betts in good stead in future years.
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